During my last trip to Ireland, I had four afternoon teas in one week. With the exception of one, which was for Mother’s Day, the other three were all billed as a “light lunch.” If you’ve ever been to Ireland, you’ve more than likely been regaled with this concept as a heaping plate of food is placed in front of you.

I’m not complaining. It’s part of what makes Irish hospitality so great, and I love the food.

I’ll start with my tea in the west of Ireland at the fabulous five-star Aghadoe Heights, just outside the town of Killarney. Killarney is a lively and bucolic spot, sitting between the Ring of Kerry and the start of the Dingle Peninsula. There’s Ross Castle, three lakes, Killarney National Park, where you can take a horse-drawn carriage (a “jaunting car”), and a colorful main street filled with specialty shops, restaurants and pubs.

Aghadoe Heights sits just outside town, a mere 10-minute ride on the complimentary shuttle, overlooking the largest of the lakes, Lough Leane. It is peaceful, serene and the epitome of Irish hospitality. General Manager Brian Bowler is a local who is often there to welcome guests, both to his hotel and to the region of which he is so proud.

The Heights Lounge overlooks the Lough, a view I could never tire of and one I also enjoyed from my massive lakefront suite. This is where afternoon tea is served.

White tablecloths. Real napkins. Polished silverware. Tea served on tiered stands.

My tea was traditional. The savory selection included egg mayonnaise in a mini brioche, smoked chicken, a turkey and ham wrap, and beef pastrami ciabatta. There were scones and an orange blossom madeleine.

Then came the sweets: sherry trifle, coconut panna cotta with yuzu gel, apple choux with Baileys cream, and orange and almond chocolate mousse.

There were eight different teas to choose from, along with coffee: Assam, Oolong, Jasmine, Green, Rooibos, China, Fruit and Vanilla Chai.

It couldn’t get better.

Or could it?

What do you get when you mix an acclaimed French chef, phenomenal local produce and a philosophy of taking hospitality to the next level?

Recently, Aghadoe Heights welcomed back Chef Cyrille Durand, a French native who settled in Ireland more than 20 years ago, fell in love with the land and the people, and stayed. He has honed his craft while bringing French flair to a region blessed with fantastic ingredients.

But Chef Durand also likes surprises. Twists on tradition.

And they are very much reflected in the current afternoon tea menu.

The savory course features local chorizo and Irish goat curd; Castletownbere crab mini blini; black truffle egg mayonnaise; grilled summer vegetables; and bubble prawns.

What I found particularly interesting was the weaving in of ingredients that you wouldn’t necessarily expect to find in an Irish afternoon tea: ube (purple yam), yuzu, kalamansi, bergamot and Chinese-style bubble shrimp. The chorizo may be non-traditional, but it is made locally, keeping that connection to the region.

As Chef Durand puts it:

“We are just trying to be different than everyone else and to offer a new afternoon tea experience; it’s a lot more like a tasting menu than your traditional afternoon tea.”

I think that sums it up perfectly.

The classic fruit scones and clotted cream are paired with lemon and yuzu curd, raspberry and rose jam, a raspberry madeleine and an ube financier.

And then there are the desserts: a beautiful selection of classics with plenty of surprises. There’s a Sliabh Luachra strawberry tartlet; a kalamansi (Philippine citrus) Paris-Brest; chocolate Mon Chéri; and a carrot, orange and bergamot cake served with crispy yogurt.

The last one was a first for me.

Tang, crunch and bergamot took orange cake to an entirely new level and made me rethink how I might present it myself.

Between the sandwiches and scones comes a palate cleanser, a relatively new trend at afternoon tea services and one where chefs are getting increasingly creative.

At Aghadoe Heights, it’s a house-made Irish rhubarb and honey soda.

Chef Durand explained:

“We are really proud of that one. We are using our own honey from the garden to make a light fermentation, just enough to make small bubbles to give an authentic soda taste.”

I loved that.

It’s local, seasonal and completely unexpected.

A new menu launches September 4 and promises to be even more exciting, while continuing to showcase local produce and maintain a strong sense of seasonality.

I was never looking for an excuse to return to Aghadoe Heights, but I’m looking forward to it even more now.

If you go, let me know. I’m dying to hear about your experience.

Hours: Daily from 1 PM to 3 PM. Twenty-four hours pre-booking is required.

Cost: 55 Euros. 25 Euros to add a glass of Champagne (Bottle 119 Euros). 15 Euros to add a glass of Vouvray (Bottle 45 Euros)

Children’s Tea: Offered.

Special Diets: Please advise when making reservation.